Defensible Space

The goal is to reduce the "fuel" available for a fire to reach your home.

• Zone 0 (0–5 feet): The Ember-Resistant Zone

  • Remove all combustibles: No bark mulch, wood chips, or dead plants. Replace them with gravel, pavers, or stone.

  • Clear the roof & gutters: Regularly remove dry leaves and pine needles. In 2026, many insurance providers now require "Zone 0" compliance for policy renewal.

  • Non-combustible fencing: If a fence attaches to your house, the first 5 feet should be metal or masonry to prevent it from acting as a "wick" to the structure.

• Zone 1 (5–30 feet): The "Lean, Clean, and Green" Zone

  • Remove all dead plants and grass.

  • Space out trees so their canopies are at least 10 feet apart.

  • Remove "ladder fuels" (low-hanging branches) so a ground fire can’t climb into the treetops.

• Zone 2 (30–100+ feet): The Reduced Fuel Zone

  • Mow annual grass to a maximum height of 4 inches.

  • Keep woodpiles in this zone, at least 30 feet from the house.

2. Home Hardening (The Structure)

Modern building standards (like the WUI codes) focus on blocking ember entry points.

• Ember-Resistant Vents: Standard attic and crawlspace vents are "open doors" for embers. Replace them with specialized WUI-rated flame and ember-resistant vents (e.g., Vulcan Vents) that have fine stainless steel mesh.

• The Roof: Ensure you have a Class A fire-rated roof (asphalt shingles, metal, or tile). Plug any gaps between the roof covering and the roof deck with "bird stops."

• Windows: Upgrade to dual-pane tempered glass. The inner pane can stay intact even if the outer pane cracks from the heat, preventing the fire from entering the house.

• Decking: Use composite or fire-treated wood. Never store flammable materials (like lawnmowers or extra wood) underneath your deck.